first hand, eventhough you know you will get called like 99% of the time there, he could still have a worse draw or just top pair which would mean your ace outs are good too and with the money in the pot already shoving is def the right play.
But if he is even somewhat decent I don’t like a check/raise on this board. I would rather bet/3bet cause villain will almost never cbet this board with air and def has a peice when he does cbet (again, assuming he is somewhat decent)
2nd hand, villain could easily be valueraising a lot lighter (8x, 66+) because he expects you to jam AK so def. get it in there.
1) You’re right that it’s 100% superstandard to get a NFD (nut flush draw) in a 6-max game, so it’s 150% standard to get a NFD in a HU match assuming 100BBs and unpaired board. Now that we know we’re committed, the question is how we get that money in. In this case, you played it well. Not check raising the flop is a sin vs. any bet (esp a min bet) and once he reraises, you have to shove. I think you have a tiny amount of fold equity but I’d expect you to be around 50% vs his calling range which makes it the correct play.
I treat the nut flush draw like a set or straight there and play accordingly to their stack sizes. In other words, most of your value is going to come from worse draws like XXcc, so leave them room to shove worse hands. In this case, it was easy because when you check-raise it to $4.50, he makes it $16 which commits him and you just shove. But lets look at a different scenario where the hand plays out a little different.
Example of a different scenario: Assume 100BB stacks, If you were to check raise his $.50 bet to $4.50 and he went to $10, you should go to $18 to $22 or something small leaving him room to shove worse draws with his perceived folding equity. A lot of people straight shove to $50 or pot to $38 or whatever which makes sure he only plays you with hands that have you beat.
second hand, no good player gets away from. however, i disagree when u said u cant put him on a three, as HU has much wider hand ranges, even 3-4 suited could play there…that being said, u beat more than enough hands to get it all in…anyone folds here (especially after flush draw on turn), they shouldnt play poker.
first hand u played wrong only because its u. u had right read that min bet was suspicious, so why not just call and try to hit ur flush on the cheap and pick up small pot like u love to do? if u wanted bigger pot for hitting flush, then raise to 1.5 or 2 so his reraise doesnt force all the money in and u can just call the reraise, that way u still increase pot but get another card on turn b4 committing rest of ur stake…ur raise was too much, if he had nothing, he folds to ur raise and u pick up pennies, but if has something like he did his reraise becomes too big for just a call and ur forced allin as a dog. at end of day, nut flush draw still a dog or slight dog if ace was an over card, and the eb i know usually wants his money in dominating not just ahead much less behind…that being said, im all-in 10 out of 10 times even if i know he has a set. bad play for eb, standard for ram.
…by getting the turn card cheaply by raising his min bet a smaller amount, if u miss on turn u can still get away relatively cheaply when ur a much bigger dog, and if u hit u get nice sized pot with possibility of getting his whole stack in after turn if he has huge hand like he did (HU, not likely villain folds even if flush hits with the amount of money already in pot)…either way, u can get away more cheaply after turn, or get nice size pot or his entire stack after turn…not like u to risk entire stack on a at very best 45 % draw (assuming ace an over)
uhhh…Ram aka bjking21…two of the greatest players in the world commented on the first hand just before you. I think I’m probably going to go with what Z and Hac (ie Urindanger and Trex313) say over a degenerate card counter. Hope you understand.
….by “entire stack” i meant villains entire stack as u had 2-1 chip advantage…something to be said about only risking HALF of ur stack for nut flush, but again, ebnit shouldnt double someone up on a less than 50% draw, thats my job.
Sick analysis by Z on the first hand, so here is my opinion on the second hand.
It’s impossible to fold in that spot with 2 kings and shoving is the correct play. There are just too many spots where he would minraise with say A-8, or a suited hand like J-8, Q-8 and possibly pay you off. There’s also a decent chance he’s totally bluffing with the min raise on a paired board (learned from phil gordon’s book) where he’s hoping you think he’s strong and will fold a hand like AJ.
Another reason why your shove is correct…Let’s say he doesn’t luck box his way into trips, i almost guarantee he pays you off (in addition to any decent 8 ) with any pair (55-99, any pair higher than 9’s i imagine he’s shoving preflop) b/c he’s putting you on AK or two 2 overs.
The % of time he has an 8, pair, or bluff is far greater than him having trips or playing AA in a sneaky way.
“second hand, no good player gets away from. however, i disagree when u said u cant put him on a three, as HU has much wider hand ranges, even 3-4 suited could play there…that being said, u beat more than enough hands to get it all in…anyone folds here (especially after flush draw on turn), they shouldnt play poker.”
anyhow, that hand was easy to opine on and was already answered by me and ur heroes…first hand is the tricky one, and if eb was actually read what i said, he would realize my analysis is consistent with what the almighty pros were saying, only a more nit version suited to eb giving him more fold equity after turn…
though the “pros” said “I’d expect you to be around 50% vs his calling range which makes it the correct play”… where is eb ever 50% in that spot assuming villain has a pair over 4, i dont see how it makes ebnit sense to get it allin as a dog, however slight the dogginess may be, noting my opinion was tailored to eb nit style.
hey Z, in all seriousness, i respect what youve done as im a consistent loser in poker though i know how to play properly just never choose to…but if ur ever bored and want to play 1k matches heads up for at least 10, im game
haha, u guys are too funny,
z and i discussed the hand, and I wanted to give my input on hand 2. EB i think since you said that earlier in the match, the villain made a min raise (and fold to a shove), it means he’s capable of making a bluff like that.
I think in this case with AA or KK, I would rather call his bet and check the turn, rather than shove. My reasoning for this is, if he IS bluffing, he’s rarely going to outdraw you, and you give him more rope to hang himself. I would take a little bit of time before calling to make it look like I have a legit decision, even tho I know I’m never folding. I find at these stakes, ppl dont really pay attention to timing tells, so taking time before you call they will perceive as weakness and be more prone to fire a 2nd shell on the turn. I’d shove once he fires that turn shell.
If I had JJ TT 99 etc, i’d probably shove if I was in the same position bc villain has more chance to outdraw. The downside of all this is since you’re trying to set a trap, if he actually has a hand like TT 99, and a Q K A come off on the turn, it might kill your action. But I think you have to do stuff like call his min raises in cases like this, to induce him to bluff further.
I think i’m rambling now, good luck at the tables!
Wow EB, is there nowhere that you guys can get away from Ram?!?
Anyways, I think Z pretty much covered hand 1, so no need to go through that. Here’s my pedestrian analysis of #2. BBQ Bret said that shoving the flop w/KK in a HU match is correct. However, rather than shove the flop, I’d prefer to raise to an amount that, much like the concept Z spoke of in hand 1, gives the villain the illusion that he has fold equity vs your hand.
If the decent part of his range is indeed hands like two overs or total air, than shoving lets him off easy. Even in the event that he has 8x or a lower PP than KK, he might fold to your value shove depending on his style. Essentially by shoving the flop, you’re narrowing down his calling range to strong hands on that board, while completely eliminating the villain’s shoving range.
Even if he only calls your non-shove range, there’s not really any cards that you’re dreading on the turn. Sure, an A might kill some action or hit his 3outer, but really your hand is still happy to see action on the turn/river.
One last thing, I remember seeing one of iRock’s vids (all excellent BTW) on Cardrunners, where he said that vs players that aren’t necessarily the best (and I think we can assume that’s true for a lot of the low stakes) a minraise on a dry board like this is often TP. I’ve found that to be very true most of the time – the bigger the donk the more likely it’s true. So in this instance, I prolly would have expected 8x or overpair to be a huge part of his range. Nevermind the fact that he shows up w/trips, vs your KK this is just a cooler.
Sorry typo in my 4th paragraph, I meant “Even if he only calls your non-shove RAISE”.
Hmm, I see that while I was typing, Hac chimed in as well and said he’d rather call than raise. Maybe I’ll have to rethink things haha. Anyways, at least he agrees with the concept that we need to give villain more rope to hang himself, I guess it’s just a matter of how best to accomplish that…
So its pretty sick that you have the Dang brothers commenting on your hands. My thoughts are the exact same as theirs.
I love the show and always listen to it while I workout or before I sleep or whatever. I’m a HU regular 2/4-5/10 on Full Tilt. Table ratings me (shanedane) . If you want some free coaching by me sweating you or you sweating me just email me.
Z or Hac if you guys want to restart your coaching i think i would be a good candidate!
and the offer is open to Brett too. I don’t have alot of HU sng experience but just showing / teaching you HU cash I’m sure alot of things could transfer over.
RAm says he knows how to play right way and choose not to? donk! You know the professional relationships
EB is trying to build dont come on here disrepecting EB by saying, “suck heroes d!ck.” So stupid.
2nd hand at those stakes seeing he has bluffed here before I dont see how you can get away from that hand. The flow of the matches would determine if you find a spot to ever get away from the hand and even so i would nub guess 3% of the time you find a reason to fold. Just my opnion.
To clarify, lets say you up 5 buy ins and you been playing a long time. Youre just a rec player and poker easily tilts you and its just about bed time. The way the game has been going, your gut tells you he might has A3s but you tell yourself I have KK! You were just about to log out and hit the sack anyways up 5 buyins. Envision how you will feel when he does have A3 in that spot and the pot is still small anyways. Fold and go to sleep up 5 feeling good about yourself. Even if you lose that hand you up 4 but my gut tells me you wouldnt sleep as great and you would and have work the next morning. Thats my only scenario for folding. (sorry for the runons)
Being a noob and armed with just enough information to felt myself, in Hand 1, I still don’t understand a shove. If we have enough of a read to suggest some sort of made hand (as EB said he thought at the time), why would the odds dictate a shove? Even if we assume that pairing the A would be good & have the NFD, I don’t see why a shove is good – particularly if there is little fold equity as Z said. Can we really expect that other lesser FD’s call an AI? And, if so, wouldn’t that be a terrible call by villain (with the exception of someone holding the 7c)? With lesser FD’s, wouldn’t we be still in the same position by calling & seeing a cheaper turn? If they go AI chasing the FD after the flop, wouldn’t they end up going AI after hitting the turn or river?
Not disagreeing with the rationale (I would say Z is a tad more accomplished than I am) – just trying to understand a bit better.
I’m not the greatest player by any means, but I wanted to share my thoughts on hand #2.
I definitely agree with Hac’s analysis, and think that calling and checking the turn is the best play in that situation. I do disagree about being happy getting it in for 100bb on the flop though. In my experience at the micros, when someone min raises, it’s usually indicative of a very strong hand or a pure bluff. If I shove in that spot, I don’t think I’m going to like his calling range that much. I actually think we’re close to flipping, and maybe even a little behind it in that spot. For that reason, Keeping some bluffs in his range increases our equity by a bunch. I just feel that villain’s range is so polarized there, I never really see guys min raising with TT in that spot. That said, I could very well be wrong, and with some reads on the villain maybe his calling range is wider. These are just my thoughts looking at the hand in a vacuum and assuming the villain has the generic “micro donk” style I’ve come across so often.
Also just want to say I’m a huge fan of the show, I think you guys have by far the best poker radio show out there!
I don’t know…for the first hand, if he bets $0.50 into a $3.00 pot, I think that’s a gift to you. Take the free card, and the cheap draw instead of raising, for a chance of him pushing and you getting it all-in with just a draw. If he has a made hand, you’re at best 35%, roughly 2 to 1, with your 9 outs to a flush draw. Perhaps with one overcard, giving you another 3 outs, making it 45%. Regardless, you are still drawing, IF he has a made hand. By him underbetting that pot, I would normally just take the gift and see the turn for cheap. Now, if he bet $1.50 or $2, I would probably raise instead of just call.
With the second hand, you’re not going to be able to do much about that one, especially heads up. You could just check-call all the way down. Regardless, you are still going to lose money on this hand…it’s just how much.
btw, boogster, r u boogster mike on msn? i saw ur hand u posted on ur blog. i dunno how u didnt get it in sooner lol. btw, i also go to school to learn daytrading more or less. if u ever notice this, give me a shout sometime @ tomgreenismean@yahoo.ca.
I’m a little perplexed why you would push so early with either of these hands in a heads up situation. In the first scenario, even though you have the nut flush draw, you still have only ace high. It may have benefited you to just call his raise and see what came on the turn. On the second hand, you were right to get your money in to protect against flush draws, but you said it yourself that you thought the guy may have flopped the nuts, and your instincts were right. You should have let him take the lead in that hand
Why are you whispering?
Because you try talking to yourself in the middle of the night with your family asleep. You feel like a weirdo.
first hand, eventhough you know you will get called like 99% of the time there, he could still have a worse draw or just top pair which would mean your ace outs are good too and with the money in the pot already shoving is def the right play.
But if he is even somewhat decent I don’t like a check/raise on this board. I would rather bet/3bet cause villain will almost never cbet this board with air and def has a peice when he does cbet (again, assuming he is somewhat decent)
2nd hand, villain could easily be valueraising a lot lighter (8x, 66+) because he expects you to jam AK so def. get it in there.
Hey EB. A few quick comments from us.
1) You’re right that it’s 100% superstandard to get a NFD (nut flush draw) in a 6-max game, so it’s 150% standard to get a NFD in a HU match assuming 100BBs and unpaired board. Now that we know we’re committed, the question is how we get that money in. In this case, you played it well. Not check raising the flop is a sin vs. any bet (esp a min bet) and once he reraises, you have to shove. I think you have a tiny amount of fold equity but I’d expect you to be around 50% vs his calling range which makes it the correct play.
I treat the nut flush draw like a set or straight there and play accordingly to their stack sizes. In other words, most of your value is going to come from worse draws like XXcc, so leave them room to shove worse hands. In this case, it was easy because when you check-raise it to $4.50, he makes it $16 which commits him and you just shove. But lets look at a different scenario where the hand plays out a little different.
Example of a different scenario: Assume 100BB stacks, If you were to check raise his $.50 bet to $4.50 and he went to $10, you should go to $18 to $22 or something small leaving him room to shove worse draws with his perceived folding equity. A lot of people straight shove to $50 or pot to $38 or whatever which makes sure he only plays you with hands that have you beat.
Good luck!
second hand, no good player gets away from. however, i disagree when u said u cant put him on a three, as HU has much wider hand ranges, even 3-4 suited could play there…that being said, u beat more than enough hands to get it all in…anyone folds here (especially after flush draw on turn), they shouldnt play poker.
first hand u played wrong only because its u. u had right read that min bet was suspicious, so why not just call and try to hit ur flush on the cheap and pick up small pot like u love to do? if u wanted bigger pot for hitting flush, then raise to 1.5 or 2 so his reraise doesnt force all the money in and u can just call the reraise, that way u still increase pot but get another card on turn b4 committing rest of ur stake…ur raise was too much, if he had nothing, he folds to ur raise and u pick up pennies, but if has something like he did his reraise becomes too big for just a call and ur forced allin as a dog. at end of day, nut flush draw still a dog or slight dog if ace was an over card, and the eb i know usually wants his money in dominating not just ahead much less behind…that being said, im all-in 10 out of 10 times even if i know he has a set. bad play for eb, standard for ram.
…by getting the turn card cheaply by raising his min bet a smaller amount, if u miss on turn u can still get away relatively cheaply when ur a much bigger dog, and if u hit u get nice sized pot with possibility of getting his whole stack in after turn if he has huge hand like he did (HU, not likely villain folds even if flush hits with the amount of money already in pot)…either way, u can get away more cheaply after turn, or get nice size pot or his entire stack after turn…not like u to risk entire stack on a at very best 45 % draw (assuming ace an over)
uhhh…Ram aka bjking21…two of the greatest players in the world commented on the first hand just before you. I think I’m probably going to go with what Z and Hac (ie Urindanger and Trex313) say over a degenerate card counter. Hope you understand.
….by “entire stack” i meant villains entire stack as u had 2-1 chip advantage…something to be said about only risking HALF of ur stack for nut flush, but again, ebnit shouldnt double someone up on a less than 50% draw, thats my job.
reread what ur heroes said eb, donk
Sick analysis by Z on the first hand, so here is my opinion on the second hand.
It’s impossible to fold in that spot with 2 kings and shoving is the correct play. There are just too many spots where he would minraise with say A-8, or a suited hand like J-8, Q-8 and possibly pay you off. There’s also a decent chance he’s totally bluffing with the min raise on a paired board (learned from phil gordon’s book) where he’s hoping you think he’s strong and will fold a hand like AJ.
Another reason why your shove is correct…Let’s say he doesn’t luck box his way into trips, i almost guarantee he pays you off (in addition to any decent 8 ) with any pair (55-99, any pair higher than 9’s i imagine he’s shoving preflop) b/c he’s putting you on AK or two 2 overs.
The % of time he has an 8, pair, or bluff is far greater than him having trips or playing AA in a sneaky way.
BRET, thanks for stating the obvious…btw, is AA a good starting hand? looking for ur advice there too
how else would you suggest i answer the question about the hand?
like this …
“second hand, no good player gets away from. however, i disagree when u said u cant put him on a three, as HU has much wider hand ranges, even 3-4 suited could play there…that being said, u beat more than enough hands to get it all in…anyone folds here (especially after flush draw on turn), they shouldnt play poker.”
anyhow, that hand was easy to opine on and was already answered by me and ur heroes…first hand is the tricky one, and if eb was actually read what i said, he would realize my analysis is consistent with what the almighty pros were saying, only a more nit version suited to eb giving him more fold equity after turn…
though the “pros” said “I’d expect you to be around 50% vs his calling range which makes it the correct play”… where is eb ever 50% in that spot assuming villain has a pair over 4, i dont see how it makes ebnit sense to get it allin as a dog, however slight the dogginess may be, noting my opinion was tailored to eb nit style.
hey Z, in all seriousness, i respect what youve done as im a consistent loser in poker though i know how to play properly just never choose to…but if ur ever bored and want to play 1k matches heads up for at least 10, im game
ram, ur a clown….1K matches? he plays 500-1000. That’s like asking asking me or EB to play .50 HU matches.
…and i know 1k matches for 10 matches is pennies to u guys, so it would be more as a competition for fun rather than any meaningful stakes for u.
hey bret, when ur done sucking ur heroes’ dicks, ill play u heads up cash on table any amount u want…we’ll see who is the clown
Ram
STOP HIJACKING MY FUCKING THREAD. IT’S NOT ABOUT YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
fair enuff, sorry, im done
haha, u guys are too funny,
z and i discussed the hand, and I wanted to give my input on hand 2. EB i think since you said that earlier in the match, the villain made a min raise (and fold to a shove), it means he’s capable of making a bluff like that.
I think in this case with AA or KK, I would rather call his bet and check the turn, rather than shove. My reasoning for this is, if he IS bluffing, he’s rarely going to outdraw you, and you give him more rope to hang himself. I would take a little bit of time before calling to make it look like I have a legit decision, even tho I know I’m never folding. I find at these stakes, ppl dont really pay attention to timing tells, so taking time before you call they will perceive as weakness and be more prone to fire a 2nd shell on the turn. I’d shove once he fires that turn shell.
If I had JJ TT 99 etc, i’d probably shove if I was in the same position bc villain has more chance to outdraw. The downside of all this is since you’re trying to set a trap, if he actually has a hand like TT 99, and a Q K A come off on the turn, it might kill your action. But I think you have to do stuff like call his min raises in cases like this, to induce him to bluff further.
I think i’m rambling now, good luck at the tables!
To be clear, i’m super happy to get in KK in for 100bb in that spot. Its just sick that he has a 3. Shoving flop is obviously fine as well.
Wow EB, is there nowhere that you guys can get away from Ram?!?
Anyways, I think Z pretty much covered hand 1, so no need to go through that. Here’s my pedestrian analysis of #2. BBQ Bret said that shoving the flop w/KK in a HU match is correct. However, rather than shove the flop, I’d prefer to raise to an amount that, much like the concept Z spoke of in hand 1, gives the villain the illusion that he has fold equity vs your hand.
If the decent part of his range is indeed hands like two overs or total air, than shoving lets him off easy. Even in the event that he has 8x or a lower PP than KK, he might fold to your value shove depending on his style. Essentially by shoving the flop, you’re narrowing down his calling range to strong hands on that board, while completely eliminating the villain’s shoving range.
Even if he only calls your non-shove range, there’s not really any cards that you’re dreading on the turn. Sure, an A might kill some action or hit his 3outer, but really your hand is still happy to see action on the turn/river.
One last thing, I remember seeing one of iRock’s vids (all excellent BTW) on Cardrunners, where he said that vs players that aren’t necessarily the best (and I think we can assume that’s true for a lot of the low stakes) a minraise on a dry board like this is often TP. I’ve found that to be very true most of the time – the bigger the donk the more likely it’s true. So in this instance, I prolly would have expected 8x or overpair to be a huge part of his range. Nevermind the fact that he shows up w/trips, vs your KK this is just a cooler.
Sorry typo in my 4th paragraph, I meant “Even if he only calls your non-shove RAISE”.
Hmm, I see that while I was typing, Hac chimed in as well and said he’d rather call than raise. Maybe I’ll have to rethink things haha. Anyways, at least he agrees with the concept that we need to give villain more rope to hang himself, I guess it’s just a matter of how best to accomplish that…
So its pretty sick that you have the Dang brothers commenting on your hands. My thoughts are the exact same as theirs.
I love the show and always listen to it while I workout or before I sleep or whatever. I’m a HU regular 2/4-5/10 on Full Tilt. Table ratings me (shanedane) . If you want some free coaching by me sweating you or you sweating me just email me.
Z or Hac if you guys want to restart your coaching i think i would be a good candidate!
and the offer is open to Brett too. I don’t have alot of HU sng experience but just showing / teaching you HU cash I’m sure alot of things could transfer over.
RAm says he knows how to play right way and choose not to? donk! You know the professional relationships
EB is trying to build dont come on here disrepecting EB by saying, “suck heroes d!ck.” So stupid.
2nd hand at those stakes seeing he has bluffed here before I dont see how you can get away from that hand. The flow of the matches would determine if you find a spot to ever get away from the hand and even so i would nub guess 3% of the time you find a reason to fold. Just my opnion.
To clarify, lets say you up 5 buy ins and you been playing a long time. Youre just a rec player and poker easily tilts you and its just about bed time. The way the game has been going, your gut tells you he might has A3s but you tell yourself I have KK! You were just about to log out and hit the sack anyways up 5 buyins. Envision how you will feel when he does have A3 in that spot and the pot is still small anyways. Fold and go to sleep up 5 feeling good about yourself. Even if you lose that hand you up 4 but my gut tells me you wouldnt sleep as great and you would and have work the next morning. Thats my only scenario for folding. (sorry for the runons)
shane, i am def gonna take u up on that. i am ready to move on to HU cash. look out for the email, thx a ton!
it really is sick that the dangs are taking the time to talk and read over a few hands….then post about it.
Being a noob and armed with just enough information to felt myself, in Hand 1, I still don’t understand a shove. If we have enough of a read to suggest some sort of made hand (as EB said he thought at the time), why would the odds dictate a shove? Even if we assume that pairing the A would be good & have the NFD, I don’t see why a shove is good – particularly if there is little fold equity as Z said. Can we really expect that other lesser FD’s call an AI? And, if so, wouldn’t that be a terrible call by villain (with the exception of someone holding the 7c)? With lesser FD’s, wouldn’t we be still in the same position by calling & seeing a cheaper turn? If they go AI chasing the FD after the flop, wouldn’t they end up going AI after hitting the turn or river?
Not disagreeing with the rationale (I would say Z is a tad more accomplished than I am) – just trying to understand a bit better.
I’m not the greatest player by any means, but I wanted to share my thoughts on hand #2.
I definitely agree with Hac’s analysis, and think that calling and checking the turn is the best play in that situation. I do disagree about being happy getting it in for 100bb on the flop though. In my experience at the micros, when someone min raises, it’s usually indicative of a very strong hand or a pure bluff. If I shove in that spot, I don’t think I’m going to like his calling range that much. I actually think we’re close to flipping, and maybe even a little behind it in that spot. For that reason, Keeping some bluffs in his range increases our equity by a bunch. I just feel that villain’s range is so polarized there, I never really see guys min raising with TT in that spot. That said, I could very well be wrong, and with some reads on the villain maybe his calling range is wider. These are just my thoughts looking at the hand in a vacuum and assuming the villain has the generic “micro donk” style I’ve come across so often.
Also just want to say I’m a huge fan of the show, I think you guys have by far the best poker radio show out there!
I don’t know…for the first hand, if he bets $0.50 into a $3.00 pot, I think that’s a gift to you. Take the free card, and the cheap draw instead of raising, for a chance of him pushing and you getting it all-in with just a draw. If he has a made hand, you’re at best 35%, roughly 2 to 1, with your 9 outs to a flush draw. Perhaps with one overcard, giving you another 3 outs, making it 45%. Regardless, you are still drawing, IF he has a made hand. By him underbetting that pot, I would normally just take the gift and see the turn for cheap. Now, if he bet $1.50 or $2, I would probably raise instead of just call.
With the second hand, you’re not going to be able to do much about that one, especially heads up. You could just check-call all the way down. Regardless, you are still going to lose money on this hand…it’s just how much.
i like the responses z and hac. rather than debate against everyone’s opinion, i can say we’ve figured out the scenarios.
now, i just wanted to present some ‘what if’ scenarios:
what if, for the first hand, villain flats hero’s flop raise and the turn bricks after villain’s minbet?
and for the second hand: hero calls villain’s minraise. turn goes check check on a 7h. river is blank. what is our line here?
btw, boogster, r u boogster mike on msn? i saw ur hand u posted on ur blog. i dunno how u didnt get it in sooner lol. btw, i also go to school to learn daytrading more or less. if u ever notice this, give me a shout sometime @ tomgreenismean@yahoo.ca.
I’m a little perplexed why you would push so early with either of these hands in a heads up situation. In the first scenario, even though you have the nut flush draw, you still have only ace high. It may have benefited you to just call his raise and see what came on the turn. On the second hand, you were right to get your money in to protect against flush draws, but you said it yourself that you thought the guy may have flopped the nuts, and your instincts were right. You should have let him take the lead in that hand